In Depth Overview of DOI + EL

Hydrating Oils for Long-Term Skin Hydration and Barrier Recovery

In the world of skincare, maintaining a healthy skin barrier is crucial, especially for those dealing with skin conditions like atopic dermatitis. The skin barrier is our body’s first line of defense against environmental stressors, and its integrity is vital for keeping our skin hydrated, soft, and resilient. However, when the skin barrier is compromised, it can lead to dryness, irritation, and a host of other skin issues. This is where hydrating oils, particularly those that target long-term hydration and barrier recovery, come into play.

Understanding the Skin Barrier and Its Importance

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, plays a key role in maintaining skin hydration. It consists of water and skin surface lipids, which together form a hydrolipid film that protects the skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). When the balance between these components is disrupted, the skin can become dry and prone to irritation. This imbalance is often seen in conditions like atopic dermatitis, where the skin lacks adequate moisture and essential lipids, leading to a compromised barrier.

The skin is a dynamic organ that continuously renews itself. As skin cells move from the deeper layers to the surface, they undergo a transformation that includes the conversion of filaggrin (FLG) into Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). NMF is essential for maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. A deficiency in NMF can lead to dry, flaky skin, often seen in people with skin barrier deficiencies. For skin to feel soft, have a nice bounce, cushiony feel and feel normal,” the top layer must contain a minimum of 10% water — and ideally between 20% and 30% (J Invest Dermatol, 124:1099- 1110, 2005).

Hydrating Oils for Long Term Skin Hydration and Barrier Recovery

The water content and skin surface lipids of the stratum corneum are important factors in the appearance and function of the skin. A disruption of the balance between the two leads to the clinical manifestation of skin dryness. Dry skin, is due not only to a decrease in skin moisture but also to a reduction of skin lipids (Sator et al., JAAD, 48(3):352-358, 2003). Dry skin lacks an adequate level of this hydrolipid film. With no protective barrier, skin is susceptible to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In this case, even if enough water is being taken in; the skin will be unable to retain optimum hydration levels.

Conventional Humectants vs Advanced Hydrating Oils

Typical moisturizers use conventional humectants such as Glycerin, Urea, Sorbitol and also Hyaluronic Acid, which provide a superficial and short-lived effect. In contrast the Hydra Synol® DOI and Synovea® EL have the ability to penetrate the skin barrier and activate synthesis of key essential components such as, ceramides, fatty acids, and aquaporins (AQPs) needed for long-lasting hydration and maintaining hydrolipid film.

HydraSynol® DOI (INCI: Isosorbide Dicaprylate)

This lipophilic smart skin hydrator works by stimulating endogenous hydration network based on skin’s need for hydration. The beneficial effect on the skin is attributed to the up regulation of AQP3 & CD44 (hyaluronic acid receptor) & tight junction genes/proteins, decrease of which is associated with a defective osmotic equilibrium in the epidermis & dryness of chronologically & photo-damaged skin.

HydraSynol® DOI also boosts the production of late cornified envelope proteins (LCEs), which are essential for the proper development of the stratum corneum. By strengthening the skin barrier at a cellular level, HydraSynol® DOI provides long-lasting hydration and improved barrier function, making it an ideal ingredient for those with compromised skin barriers.

Synovea® EL: The Power of Essential Fatty Acids

Synovea® EL (INCI: Ethyl Linoleate) is a stable derivative of Linoleic Acid (LA), an essential fatty acid known for its role in skin health. LA, also known as Vitamin F, is crucial for maintaining the skin’s barrier function and supporting the immune response. As the body cannot produce LA naturally, it must be supplied through skincare or diet.

When applied to the skin, Synovea® EL converts to Linoleic Acid, providing all the skin benefits of LA with improved skin permeability & ease of handling. Linoleic Acid is a key component of the stratum corneum’s lipid matrix, particularly in ceramides, which make up 40-50% of the skin’s lipids. These lipids are vital for the skin’s permeability barrier. The presence of Linoleic Acid in Stratum Corneum ceramides directly correlates with permeability barrier function of the skin Our recent study using explants reveals that Synovea® EL increases epidermal abundance of AQP-9, FLG, and LOR.

Moisturizing Cream for Dry, Itchy Skin with Hydra Synol® DOI & Synovea® EL

Common skin disorders such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis can materialize on the skin in the form of scaling, dryness and itching. These disorders are caused by disruption to the skin barrier resulting in loss of hydration and an imbalance of skin lipids. Consumers can feel uncomfortable with exposed skin redness and itching. It is important to focus on barrier issues in the skin as they are the root cause for many skin disorders that consumers struggle with. Luckily, Sytheon has developed two key ingredients to address these concerns: Synovea® EL and Hydra Synol® DOI.

Maintaining skin barrier function and hydration allows Synovea® EL to be an important ingredient in any product targeting dry, itchy skin. An important function of Synovea® EL to highlight is its ability to maintain stratum corneum acidity. For the skin barrier to function normally, lipids need to be converted into free fatty acids which can only be done in an acidic environment. While everyone has a different pH of their skin, the average is in the acidic range, around 5.5. Synovea® EL can be used in formulas to target pH balancing claims to regulate normal skin barrier function.

Hydra Synol® DOI has been clinically proven to maintain long-lasting hydration even after the regression period. Many products provide temporary relief for skin issues such as eczema and psoriasis, but Hydra Synol® DOI can provide a more long-term solution and can relieve the itching of the skin. 2% Hydra Synol® DOI was tested against 2% Glycerol and proven to be 3X more effective at hydrating severely dry skin. However, a synergism was observed with a combination of 2% Hydra Synol® DOI and 2% Glycerol.

A perfect combination to maintain and build the barrier of the skin as well as maintaining its pH is 2% Hydra Synol® DOI, 2% Glycerol and 2% Synovea® EL. Reach out to formulations@sytheonltd.com for the Moisturizing Cream for Dry, Itchy Skin formulation.

Conclusion

For individuals with atopic dermatitis or other skin conditions that involve a compromised skin barrier, using advanced hydrating oils like HydraSynol® DOI and Synovea® EL can make a significant difference. These ingredients not only provide immediate relief from dryness but also support the skin’s long-term health by enhancing its natural barrier function. By incorporating these powerful oils into skincare routines, it is possible to achieve lasting hydration and healthier, more resilient skin.

Want to review this formula and get more information on Synastol® TC? Reach out to Sytheon at formulations@sytheonltd.com to speak with a formulator.

In Depth Overview of DOI + EL

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