Stability of a product under oxidative and photooxidative environment is imperative, if the product has to achieve maximum efficiency, as it has a significant impact on skin protection, phototoxicity and on the SPF, particularly, ultraviolet A region (320400 nm) protection. Photostable UV filter combinations are one of the most important properties to consider in developing an effective sunscreen. Instability is also true for many other compounds, more specifically polyunsaturated lipids as they are used as ingredients and also part of endogenous skin lipids.
The mechanisms and the sequence of events by which free radicals interfere with cellular functions are not fully understood; but one of the most important oxidative events seems to be lipid peroxidation, which results in cellular membrane damage. Lipid peroxidation refers to the oxidative degradation of lipids. Free fatty acids and squalene are major lipids that make up sebum. Retinol & its analogs are commonly used skin care actives. Both these compounds are highly susceptible to peroxidation and photodegradation. A great diversity of aldehydes are formed when lipid hydroperoxides break down. Some of these aldehydes are highly reactive and may be considered as second toxic messengers which disseminate and augment initial free radical events. Selection of a broad-spectrum antioxidant having potent lipid peroxidation inhibition is the key in developing effective skin care products.
Synoxyl® HSS (INCI: Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione) Use level: 1 to 2%
Synoxyl® HSS is a breakthrough first-in-the Industry stabilizer. It is an excellent photostabiliser for Avobenzone. The photostabilizing effect of Synoxyl® HSS arises from triplet-state energy transfer from avobenzone to Synoxyl HSS and through light-induced reactions that preserve the main chromophores. It provides in-vivo SPF boosting by 50% for both organic and inorganic sunscreens when alone it has no contribution to SPF. Synoxyl® HSS further protects skin by inhibiting up-stream ROS cascade. It is easy to use in oil in combination with HydraSynol™ DOI to provide hydrating broad-spectrum sunscreen oils. Use of Avobenzone, HMS, OS with Synoxyl® HSS provides cost-effective, high SPF & broad-spectrum (critical wavelength of > 370 nm) sunscreens.
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Synoxyl® HCP (INCI: PEG-8 and Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione) Use level: 0.4 to 1%
Being highly hydrophobic, it is difficult to use Synoxyl® HSS in water-based system. Synoxyl® HCP is solubilized in PEG-8, which is easy to use and a water-soluble version of Synoxyl® HSS. It is developed specifically for stabilizing water-soluble dyes against UV- induced color fading, it is also very effective in extending color life of formulated products when exposed to incandescent or fluorescent lamps in retail store.
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Sytenol® A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use level: 0.2 to 0.5%
Sytenol® A is a highly purified (>99%) meroterpene of natural origin having no structural resemblance to retinoids. However, it acts as a functional analogue of retinol.
Sytenol® A is a broad-spectrum radical (hydroxyl, peroxyl, superoxide, & peroxynitrite) & non-radical (singlet oxygen) quencher and has an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity. In fact, Sytenol® A is 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherols in reducing lipid peroxidation. It is an excellent stabilizer for retinol, squalene & other polyunsaturated fatty acid/esters under oxidative & photo-oxidative environments.
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